Capt._Chaos
July 23rd, 2005, 17:43
This is an article I wrote for the July 2005 edition of LandLine Magazine. It may have a few variances, being that I couldn't find it on LandLine's website. I pulled this out of my original document file.
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From: LandLine Magazine, July 2005
Author: Jeff Barker
"Your Truck's Cooling System- Giving Yourself Peace of Mind During The Heat of the Summer"
The summer months are just ahead, and what does that mean? Vacations, outdoor barbecues, and spending lots of time outdoors. When some of us are outdoors having fun and get hot, we simply reach into the cooler for a cold beer or other beverage and go look for a shady spot to relax, right? Well, that's easy for us to do, and many of us are looking forward to having some good times this summer. In terms of your truck, summer heat places increased demands on your truck's cooling system.
In many areas of the country that are notorious for extreme heat, those demands can bring out any weakness on that cooling system, but unfortunately, not enough people give that any thought, that is, until it's too late and they're having a little time alone in Timbuk 3 to think about it. Have you ever heard that saying "A Chain Is Only As Strong As Its Weakest Link"? That does apply to your truck's cooling system, especially during the heat of the summer.
In this month's column, I will highlight areas in the cooling system that need to be checked periodically & given proper attention. Keeping a close eye on this, like every other area of your truck, will significantly decrease the chances of an unexpected & costly breakdown. Nobody wants it to happen to them, especially when their families are waiting for them to make it home safely.
After running in adverse winter conditions, the cooling fins of these items more than likely may have become partially clogged from road salt, dirt, and other foreign matter. The fin area of these items should be cleaned every spring before it gets too warm outside.
This can be done by doing the following:
(1) Remove the grille from your truck's hood and put it in a safe place. Hopefully you put it somewhere where a dog, whether yours or someone else's, won't lift a leg and "express his opinion" about your truck! He-He!
(2) Cover the hood & other painted (or chrome) surfaces that you feel need to be protected. I'm serious about this, folks!
(3) Spray two cans of EZ-Off Oven Cleaner into the fin areas from both sides of the radiator, A/C condenser, intercooler, and transmission cooler. Let it soak for about 15 minutes while you enjoy a break and maybe grab yourself a bite to eat.
(4) Rinse with LOW PRESSURE water (a garden hose at home will work). DO NOT use high-pressure sprayers (like those at a car or truck wash), as the force from these can bend the fins of the aforementioned components, causing an airflow restriction. Rinse all of the residual oven cleaner from anywhere it can be seen, including what was used to cover the truck's painted surfaces.
(5) Remove the covering on the hood & other painted surfaces.
(6) Re-install the grille.
(7) Rinse the truck again if necessary.
(8) Park the truck first, then go grab a beer & pat yourself on the back!
A note about truck radiators: I've seen most of them on different makes of trucks fail at around the 700,000 mile mark (usually a cracked core header). If your truck is near that mileage mark, replace it while it's convenient to do so, as it can become extremely costly should it fail on the road without any prior warning & leave your truck sidelined. Seeing coolant coming out like gangbusters while going down the road can mean the beginning of a bad day for anyone! Save yourself the agony & frustration while you can.
Antifreeze/Coolant: Check the protection level, SCA Additive Level, and for any discoloration that may indicate a possible engine problem. Flush the cooling system & fill with new coolant if necessary. Stick with the same coolant that has been used, as the different coolant can eventually cause internal seal failures in the water pump, cylinder liners, and anywhere else a rubber seal may exist in the cooling system.
Coolant Hoses: Check to be sure the hose rubber is still pliable, and that the hoses are not rubbing on anything. Make sure the hose clamps are tight. If your truck is 4 years old or more, and you don't know if or when the coolant hoses have been replaced before (especially with black rubber hose), then it's time to replace all of them. Regardless of the truck's mileage, these hoses begin to rot from the inside, usually with little or no visual warning from the outside, and can fail at the most inconvenient time. When replacing them, it'a advisable to use new hose clamps, as the old ones may be stretched and may not re-tighten properly. Don't go for the cheapest way out on this, as it might actually end up costing you mega mucho dinero if those inferior quality parts choose to fail at a really bad time!
Belts: Check them for proper tension, and visually inspect them for cracks and/or fraying. It's a good idea to remove the belts for closer inspection, and inspect the idler pulleys, fan clutch & hub, alternator shaft bearings, A/C compressor clutch idler bearing, accessory drive, and, if applicable, the water pump pulley to catch a potential problem before it's too late. It is definitely a good idea to carry spare belts and a spring-loaded belt tensioner pulley (if applicable), as this can make the difference between a "short pit stop" ("Cool! I have the parts, let's fix it and go look forward to a steak dinner afterwards!") and "being out of the race" ("Don't have what I need, and I'm unable to get a cell phone signal out here in the middle of nowhere to call for help!).
Fan Shroud & Fan Blade: Check these for cracks & replace if necessary. A truck without the correct fan shroud that's properly installed is just looking for a few places to park on those long upgrades to cool off!
Last, but certainly not the least! Let's talk about your truck's Air Conditioning System: We know how important this is in the summer heat, right? While it's advisable to seek the help of a qualified professional to do repairs on a cab A/C system, there's a lot that can be done by those who are mechanically inclined, and want to prevent this system from failing, especially in places like Death Valley, CA and in Texas where it's pretty much mandatory.
Here's a partial list of what can be checked:
(1) Evaporator Core: These get dirty in normal use, but can usually be cleaned with a wire brush, taking care not to damage the fins. If your truck has a filter screen (a factory item on most Internationals & Volvos, and an aftermarket item on most other trucks that can be installed externally on the truck's fresh air intake), replace the filter screen if it's dirty.
(2) Hoses: Be sure these are secured not rubbing on anything. Loose hoses moving around can cause broken fittings, and a hole rubbed in a hose can cause it to weaken & burst under pressure, resulting in the loss of the freon charge. Check the receiver/drier to be sure it's securely mounted.
(3) A/C compressor: Be sure it's securely mounted, with no loose or missing bolts. Check the wire going to the compressor clutch to be sure it's secured, and not rubbing on anything.
(4) Blower Fan Motor: Check to see that the vent tube going to it is not clogged, as an obstruction of air flow to cool that motor can result in it becoming hot, motor failure, or worse yet, a fire. Also, removing the "squirrel cages" (blower fan wheels) and cleaning the dirt out of them is a good idea. Clean the blower motor housings before reassembling.
(5) Duct Work: Be sure all climate control duct work is mounted properly so the A/C system can cool your truck efficiently. Air flow leaks behind the dash and/or in the sleeper area should be sealed up.
Have a safe & profitable summer!
--------------------------------------------------------------------
From: LandLine Magazine, July 2005
Author: Jeff Barker
"Your Truck's Cooling System- Giving Yourself Peace of Mind During The Heat of the Summer"
The summer months are just ahead, and what does that mean? Vacations, outdoor barbecues, and spending lots of time outdoors. When some of us are outdoors having fun and get hot, we simply reach into the cooler for a cold beer or other beverage and go look for a shady spot to relax, right? Well, that's easy for us to do, and many of us are looking forward to having some good times this summer. In terms of your truck, summer heat places increased demands on your truck's cooling system.
In many areas of the country that are notorious for extreme heat, those demands can bring out any weakness on that cooling system, but unfortunately, not enough people give that any thought, that is, until it's too late and they're having a little time alone in Timbuk 3 to think about it. Have you ever heard that saying "A Chain Is Only As Strong As Its Weakest Link"? That does apply to your truck's cooling system, especially during the heat of the summer.
In this month's column, I will highlight areas in the cooling system that need to be checked periodically & given proper attention. Keeping a close eye on this, like every other area of your truck, will significantly decrease the chances of an unexpected & costly breakdown. Nobody wants it to happen to them, especially when their families are waiting for them to make it home safely.
After running in adverse winter conditions, the cooling fins of these items more than likely may have become partially clogged from road salt, dirt, and other foreign matter. The fin area of these items should be cleaned every spring before it gets too warm outside.
This can be done by doing the following:
(1) Remove the grille from your truck's hood and put it in a safe place. Hopefully you put it somewhere where a dog, whether yours or someone else's, won't lift a leg and "express his opinion" about your truck! He-He!
(2) Cover the hood & other painted (or chrome) surfaces that you feel need to be protected. I'm serious about this, folks!
(3) Spray two cans of EZ-Off Oven Cleaner into the fin areas from both sides of the radiator, A/C condenser, intercooler, and transmission cooler. Let it soak for about 15 minutes while you enjoy a break and maybe grab yourself a bite to eat.
(4) Rinse with LOW PRESSURE water (a garden hose at home will work). DO NOT use high-pressure sprayers (like those at a car or truck wash), as the force from these can bend the fins of the aforementioned components, causing an airflow restriction. Rinse all of the residual oven cleaner from anywhere it can be seen, including what was used to cover the truck's painted surfaces.
(5) Remove the covering on the hood & other painted surfaces.
(6) Re-install the grille.
(7) Rinse the truck again if necessary.
(8) Park the truck first, then go grab a beer & pat yourself on the back!
A note about truck radiators: I've seen most of them on different makes of trucks fail at around the 700,000 mile mark (usually a cracked core header). If your truck is near that mileage mark, replace it while it's convenient to do so, as it can become extremely costly should it fail on the road without any prior warning & leave your truck sidelined. Seeing coolant coming out like gangbusters while going down the road can mean the beginning of a bad day for anyone! Save yourself the agony & frustration while you can.
Antifreeze/Coolant: Check the protection level, SCA Additive Level, and for any discoloration that may indicate a possible engine problem. Flush the cooling system & fill with new coolant if necessary. Stick with the same coolant that has been used, as the different coolant can eventually cause internal seal failures in the water pump, cylinder liners, and anywhere else a rubber seal may exist in the cooling system.
Coolant Hoses: Check to be sure the hose rubber is still pliable, and that the hoses are not rubbing on anything. Make sure the hose clamps are tight. If your truck is 4 years old or more, and you don't know if or when the coolant hoses have been replaced before (especially with black rubber hose), then it's time to replace all of them. Regardless of the truck's mileage, these hoses begin to rot from the inside, usually with little or no visual warning from the outside, and can fail at the most inconvenient time. When replacing them, it'a advisable to use new hose clamps, as the old ones may be stretched and may not re-tighten properly. Don't go for the cheapest way out on this, as it might actually end up costing you mega mucho dinero if those inferior quality parts choose to fail at a really bad time!
Belts: Check them for proper tension, and visually inspect them for cracks and/or fraying. It's a good idea to remove the belts for closer inspection, and inspect the idler pulleys, fan clutch & hub, alternator shaft bearings, A/C compressor clutch idler bearing, accessory drive, and, if applicable, the water pump pulley to catch a potential problem before it's too late. It is definitely a good idea to carry spare belts and a spring-loaded belt tensioner pulley (if applicable), as this can make the difference between a "short pit stop" ("Cool! I have the parts, let's fix it and go look forward to a steak dinner afterwards!") and "being out of the race" ("Don't have what I need, and I'm unable to get a cell phone signal out here in the middle of nowhere to call for help!).
Fan Shroud & Fan Blade: Check these for cracks & replace if necessary. A truck without the correct fan shroud that's properly installed is just looking for a few places to park on those long upgrades to cool off!
Last, but certainly not the least! Let's talk about your truck's Air Conditioning System: We know how important this is in the summer heat, right? While it's advisable to seek the help of a qualified professional to do repairs on a cab A/C system, there's a lot that can be done by those who are mechanically inclined, and want to prevent this system from failing, especially in places like Death Valley, CA and in Texas where it's pretty much mandatory.
Here's a partial list of what can be checked:
(1) Evaporator Core: These get dirty in normal use, but can usually be cleaned with a wire brush, taking care not to damage the fins. If your truck has a filter screen (a factory item on most Internationals & Volvos, and an aftermarket item on most other trucks that can be installed externally on the truck's fresh air intake), replace the filter screen if it's dirty.
(2) Hoses: Be sure these are secured not rubbing on anything. Loose hoses moving around can cause broken fittings, and a hole rubbed in a hose can cause it to weaken & burst under pressure, resulting in the loss of the freon charge. Check the receiver/drier to be sure it's securely mounted.
(3) A/C compressor: Be sure it's securely mounted, with no loose or missing bolts. Check the wire going to the compressor clutch to be sure it's secured, and not rubbing on anything.
(4) Blower Fan Motor: Check to see that the vent tube going to it is not clogged, as an obstruction of air flow to cool that motor can result in it becoming hot, motor failure, or worse yet, a fire. Also, removing the "squirrel cages" (blower fan wheels) and cleaning the dirt out of them is a good idea. Clean the blower motor housings before reassembling.
(5) Duct Work: Be sure all climate control duct work is mounted properly so the A/C system can cool your truck efficiently. Air flow leaks behind the dash and/or in the sleeper area should be sealed up.
Have a safe & profitable summer!