'Little' truck question

[Big_Dave]

Got a '93 Chevy Silverado C1500 Z-71 4x4 regular cab, short box pickup. It's got 192,xxx miles on the original motor. I know it's getting 'tired' and will need to be replaced soon (before spring). The truck has the original 5.7 litre 350 ci V-8 engine. When I do change the motor, I wanna be able to pull the 'old' one and drop in the new one in a weekend. Yeah, I know that's wishful thinking because there's always 'something' that comes up in the ways of problems. :wow:

The pickup is in great shape with only a little bit of surface rust on the right rear corner of the rear bumper. No other rust is evident anywhere. :cool: This truck is NOT a candidate for a junkyard motor!

The motor still runs good, the tranny still shifts like it's supposed to........heck, everything on it works like it did right outta the showroom. :cool: Except for the air conditioner. :wtf:

I can't see trading the truck off for something that I wouldn't be familiar with (the maintenance history of it).

I'm considering a 'crate' motor, but I've never dealt with companies that sell these.

If I do go with a 'crate' motor, I'm gonna have it built for pulling with an 'RV' cam so it's peak performance is in the 1500-5000 RPM range.

Anyone got any good recommendations?

Why do you recommend them?

[Big_Dave]

Also, since the replacement motor won't be 'factory stock' specs, what other modifications am I looking at for the ECM (onboard computer)? :noclue:

[Capt._Chaos]

Dave, check out Jeg's and Summit Racing.

They have some GM crate motors (and some from other manufacturers) that are built for towing applications with an RV cam in them. A bit pricier than most, but of better quality (and more likely to work just fine with your ECM like it is now). The GM dealers also carry them, but probably more expensive there.

Provided the engines are identical, you should be able to do the swap in a weekend with some help, and use your current ECM (provided you don't go too radical on cam specs). If you go with an Edelbrock cam, their Tech Support can also tell you what ECM Performance Chip to use with it for good results.

What about your exhaust? Is it stock, or do you have a "cat-back" system? If you're gonna "pep it up", allow it to breathe better. Are you planning to use headers? Hedman HPC-Coated Headers are the best I've used, and they likely make a set to work with your stock catalytic converter.

After getting the engine and before the swap is done, get new sending units (oil pressure, water temp, and a new oxygen sensor), as I would never trust a new engine to old senders. Just hold off on installing them until after the new engine is mounted in place, as they can easily be broken off. If the new engine doesn't have a water pump on it, get a new Milodon water pump (better than stock by far) from Jeg's or Summit. Same for the harmonic balancer (I run a Fluidamper balancer on the Charger's big Stroker Motor). Replacing your radiator hoses & heater hoses now wuld be a great idea too- I went with a silicone hose kit from Summit Racing.

Now would also be a great time to replace the motor mounts (rubber isolators). NAPA will have 'em, as will the dealer. Don't forget an exhaust manifold gasket set, K&N air filter, oil filter, oil, and new spark plugs either. Have all this stuff together & ready to go ahead of time.

I would do the swap by first disconecting & marking all wiring & vacuum lines, removing the intake manifold (with the TBI unit still in place), removing the hood, radiator, exhaust manifolds, and pulling the engine out by itself (leaving the transmission where it is). Spray some gasket remover on the intake manifold gasket surfaces & let it work while you prepare to set the new engine in place.

Having every part you will need on hand ahead of time will save those time-consuming trips to the auto parts store that may not have exactly what you need, when you need it. Things go smoother, and you get the job done quicker without feeling rushed.

I'm confident the swap can be done in a weekend without overlooking anything. In the past, I have done a few engine replacements in my driveway in less than 12 hours.

[ROADHUGGER]

Kid that works for me just did what you want to do his is a 74 , he picked up a JUNKYARD motor ( tree had fallen on the back of a Suburban ) that had been totally rebuilt less than 1,000 miles ago and had been setup for pulling a travel trailer.

We set things up in the shop and had it swapped in less than 8 hours ( pays to have had a race team :) )

[nitestar]

Hey Dave
Jasper engines does remans and can use yours for a core or rebuild yours for you.
www.jasperengines.com

[LSMR]

Hey Dave
Jasper engines does remans and can use yours for a core or rebuild yours for you.
www.jasperengines.com

I have used Jasper for reman engines,differentials & transmissions and have been satisfied with their products.Usually if I order before noon the engine is delivered the next day.They also have install kits at a good price that include almost everything you need such as belts,hoses,thermostat,water pump ect.All the parts included on these are brand name.

With proper planning and not breaking out the beer for your "helpers" until your done the job shouldn't be a problem in a weekend.

[tommy]

Jasper is the way to go unless you go through GM direct..192,K on that 350 is nothing IF it was kept up good. Is it low on power,using oil or why would you change it. You had said it ran fine and tranny is good that only AC was not working.. spend 1K (about) for the AC all new and go on enjoying.

A properly maintained 5.7 GM motor should go 300K ..

[Big_Dave]

Is it low on power,using oil or why would you change it. You had said it ran fine and tranny is good that only AC was not working..
It does run good. :cool: I've never had a 350 last this long, that's why I was asking about a replacement motor.

Lately the oil pressure has been fluctuating from day to day. Example; On my way to work last week, oil pressure was about 30 psi. On my way home Friday night, oil pressure was about 15 psi. When we went home at Christmas, the oil pressure was just above the 'red' mark, so I figure it was reading about 6-8 psi. :wtf: Last night when we went to the grocery store (about a 30 mile round trip), the oil pressure was about 35 psi.

I've been thinking that maybe the oil pressure sending unit is going bad, but I have yet to troubleshoot it. I'm also gonna temporarily hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge since I don't completely trust electronic gauges.

[tommy]

I've been thinking that maybe the oil pressure sending unit is going bad, but I have yet to troubleshoot it. I'm also gonna temporarily hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge since I don't completely trust electronic gauges.

exactly what I was going to say, you beat me to it, :cool:

here in Fl. cars do not really rust so people will drive them till the wheels fall of, well some do, LOL, and that 5.7 is an awsome motor...

[Capt._Chaos]

I had a 350 (5.7L) Chevy in my old '78 Fleetside pickup run for 280,000 miles before the heads or oil pan had to be removed.

Although not the most powerful, the Chevy small-block V-8s were famous for often outlasting the vehicles they came in!

My '85 Corvette I had that I sold to my friend DrivingZiggy's uncle had a 350 with Tuned Port Injection that ran beautiful with 110,000 miles on it. The valve guide seals were going bad, but the compression test revealed a very tight engine.

My '95 Silverado Extended-Cab has a 350 in it, and I plan to keep it around for a long time. Bought it 11 years ago, and it still runs great.

[tommy]

so whatcha gonna do Dave????

[Big_Dave]

When I run to town in a bit to get new license plate tabs, I'll pick up a mechanical oil pressure gauge and install it. When I get back home next week, I'll make the determination as to what I'm gonna do.

[tommy]

When I run to town in a bit to get new license plate tabs, I'll pick up a mechanical oil pressure gauge and install it. When I get back home next week, I'll make the determination as to what I'm gonna do.


your gonna fart around and let it blow up?? Damn truck drivers!!! :D

if oil press. is low or up and down could be oil pump.. as long as compression is good and does not leak back through valves, let that motor in there....replacing a gauage or oil pump is easier and CHEAPER!!

[Capt._Chaos]

Dave, what's the verdict?

Did you put a mechanical gauge on it yet?

[Big_Dave]

No, but I did put a new sending unit on yesterday before I left the shop to come home. It still reads about the same. :wtf:

I did some checking around here and Napa has a Gopher crate motor long block for $1,310.

I'm gonna call and find out all the details about it.

http://www.gopherengines.com/

[shewolf]

Hubby installed a mechanical gauge on his '89 Camaro because it was only equipped with an "idiot" light and he didnt like that.

However he ran into a problem with the ECM and the mechanical gauge. The ECM required the low oil pressure light to be hooked up, some sensor was causing the engine to run rough until he hooked the oil light back up.

So then he tried a "splitter" on the block to try and run the light and the gauge but he says it still wasnt "right", didnt run right and he didnt think the gauge was getting an accurate reading either.

So he ended up disconnecting the gauge and having to live with the light, just kept the gauge in the dash for decoration. :D

He thought about doing away with the ECM but it would have been more trouble than it was worth since we were trying to use the car for transportation and not a race car. :D

All I know is that Camaro was a temperamental thing when it came to making any changes, not like the "old" engines. Too much electronic junk on there.

[FannBlade]

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/

[Capt._Chaos]

Hubby installed a mechanical gauge on his '89 Camaro because it was only equipped with an "idiot" light and he didnt like that.

However he ran into a problem with the ECM and the mechanical gauge. The ECM required the low oil pressure light to be hooked up, some sensor was causing the engine to run rough until he hooked the oil light back up.

So then he tried a "splitter" on the block to try and run the light and the gauge but he says it still wasnt "right", didnt run right and he didnt think the gauge was getting an accurate reading either.

So he ended up disconnecting the gauge and having to live with the light, just kept the gauge in the dash for decoration. :D

He thought about doing away with the ECM but it would have been more trouble than it was worth since we were trying to use the car for transportation and not a race car. :D

All I know is that Camaro was a temperamental thing when it came to making any changes, not like the "old" engines. Too much electronic junk on there.

Tell him to try grounding the wire to the idiot light and re-connect the mechanical gauge.

If that doesn't work, he could relocate the sender unit to a port on the front of the engine and extend the wire going to it to keep the idiot light out and the ECM happy. If I remember right, the V-6 and small-block V-8 have ports elsewhere to monitor oil pressure. A reputable machine shop employee should be able to tell you where they're located.

[shewolf]

Thanks for the info, CC. Luckily we don't have that headache anymore, sold it to my brother since he drove it all the time and helped tear it up when we were gone trucking. :D

And after all that when I read your reply to Hubby he reminded me it was the WATER TEMP gauge he couldn't get to work right. The mechanical OIL gauge he installed worked fine but the WATER gauge was the one he couldnt figure out.

The idiot light in the dash apparently didnt work right, the car overheated and the thing still wouldnt come on half the time. So he changed sensors and tried some other stuff and then tried the mechanical gauge, tried a splitter like I described above but couldnt get it to work right either.